![]() This leg adds additional support to the crossbar to safely hold your weight. Twist the extender until it is secured in the leg and the bottom edge rests firmly on the floor. The leg extender comes with the queen converter rail kit. Insert a glide assembly leg extender into the bottom of the leg on the crossbar. Other beds may have a single bar that slides into notches on the side rails. Depending on the bed, the crossbars will either snap together or require screws or a clamp to hold them in place. If one of the arms is shorter than the other, place it on top for added strength. Place the cross rail so that the leg faces the same direction as the downward-facing side rail guards. When selecting the notches, use the longer placement to extend the length for the queen mattress. Metal bed frames are made to convert their length for use with a queen. Although assembly may vary, most bed frames have you lock the arms together by sliding the notches in place. The side rail guards are the 90-degree angle pieces of metal that stick up from the side rails and hold the mattress in place. Instead of having the long arms on the side facing upward with the side rail guards up, place the side rail guards down to accommodate the larger mattress. Step 1Īssemble the full bed frame upside down. The changes took about 2 hours to complete.You'll be sleeping in your converted bed in minutes. I had to trim the shelf against the headboard nearly 3", but the whole setup is more snug than it was with my original design. The change is not visible from the outside, but the increase in strength should keep anything from coming loose in the future. After getting five screws in each bearing plate, I stretched the 3" x 7" tie plates across the inside of the rail to stiffen the joints. After that, it was a matter of drilling through the wood and plate (but not the outside face) and securing it will #10 metal screws. Then, I had to trim the expansion rails to remove the area where the pins were and widen the kerf enough to fit the 1/8" bearing plates and deep enough to snug up the old and new rails. Rather than repeat the same mistakes, I headed over to Lowes and picked up some Simpson strong ties (four 3" x 3" Bearing plates, and four 3" x 7" tie plates) I removed the hook portion from the old bed rails by drilling from the outside with a small diameter bit and forcing the retaining pins out. Full Mattress 54" x 75" Queen Mattress 60" x 80" Update: Well, it almost worked.The pins I was hoping would work in broke sending the bed into a slanted position. It has really turned out to be a great addition. We can charge our phones, store books, glasses, etc. It sits about 4" below the mattress and allows you to lay your arm under your pillow without it falling asleep. ![]() The additional area at the head of the bed was made into a curved shelf resting on triangular plywood posts, complete with an electrical outlet. The finished dimensions of the opening are 60-1/2" (a little wider than it should be, 3/4" plywood was used under the box spring) x 90" (including the curve on the headboard). The extension of the frame was a bit more difficult because the headboard was designed to curve around the mattress. The rails use the same bed hook design as the original. I am hoping that as we use the bed, it will loosen the pin holes a bit to mate up the two pieces better. As you can see if the photos, the original rails sit a little proud of the extensions. The blanks were make up of face-glued Yellow Pine that was shaped with a bandsaw and belt sander. ![]() After a couple attempts, I came up with this result. I had the idea to extend the frame (width and length) to accommodate the mattress we used. We had an "antique" bed frame that was setup for a Full sized mattress instead of the Queen each of us had. ![]()
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